The state of places
Who tells
you have to be a multinational company to keep pace with marketing
evolutions? Who tells you have to have a huge turnover to secure
development? Here is one of the most basic truths: you do not
have to be large-sized to be intelligent! An apparently banal
remark that has, however, determined a whole century's strategic
choices. The future deserves a little personal engagement, whatever
the level you are operating at, all the more so as the new roads
to success are already latent, within everybody's reach...
By Francesca Spinetta
Nothing will be as it was
in the past, all the more so as the past was not what we believed
it to be.
As it happens during all
era transitions worthy of this name, survivors look back from
a perspective allowing them to write their history. Inevitably,
looked from above, reality takes a completely different form,
lines touch drawing a picture that could not be drawn from inside.
Whether it is a lightning stroke or a disappointment, the discovery
of the past announces the need to conceive a new form of future
with its anchorage places, its rituals and its values. The enterprise
as a social aggregate has always reflected the lifestyle of each
era (it is not by chance that one of its synonyms is society).
Its organisation and operation have had - willy-nilly - to integrate
the aspirations of the human society giving life to it. In this
way, a rural society turned into a handicraft organisation hinged
upon individual ability; an industrial society took advantage
of a mechanical organisation supported by an entrepreneurial structure,
and, more recently, a flexible organisation, based upon workgroups
and collective participation, has consolidated itself in neo-industrial
society. Nowadays, in our post-industrial society, the organisation
has once again to keep pace with modern developments, going beyond
the stage of individual talent sharing in order to create a new
vision of management, based upon emphasising intuition and creativity
and centred upon setting and style.
The H factor
It is impossible to separate
the human dimension from the productive one now more than ever.
The No Global movement is the most extreme example of this phenomenon.
Each economic activity has now to take account of the main values
of our time: intellectualisation, creativity, ethics, reliability,
aesthetics, subjectivity, affectivity, feminisation, space/time
destructuralisation, quality of life. If it does not do so out
of philanthropy, it will out of interest, because the relationship
with consumers will depend directly on these elements.
The methods of analytical
marketing, so disparaged in recent times, were really outdated,
which was not surprising since they had been invented in the 60s!
It has been necessary to
redesign marketing according to the "new consumer", add the so-called
2P to it and then invent the so-called one-to-one marketing within
the logic - now taken to extremes - of scientific behavioural
studies so as to discover - in more recent times - the need to
"make friends" with the consumer, who - tired of being a target
- began asserting his right to private life! With a drastic change
in the attack angle among the gurus of sales, a new character
- the CRM - appears and has the task of "making friends" with
consumers because - and this is another new element - acquiring
new customers is three times as difficult as retaining old ones.
It is worth making an effort!
Apart from the paradox
that can be involved in any new doctrine, the background remains
significant all the same: the relationship is now more valuable
than anything else, the opportunity to create mutual trust is
much more important than quality, service, price and even harmony
in the point of sale. Of course, all these variables do not cease
to be vital, but they cannot exist any longer outside a more harmonious
logic based upon consistency and legitimacy.
New
hints
symmetrical marketing
asymmetrical marketing
exchange economy
network economy
growth and development
vitality and innovation
previsional analyses
previsions and forebodings
plans and programs
thoughts and projects
mergers and alliances
partnership and friendship
warlike marketing
relational marketing
passive segmentation
active pollination
one-to-one marketing
one-for-many marketing
consumers
people
logos
dia-logue
logo
place
think globally act
locally
think locally act globally
local/global symmetry
unique /universal asymmetry
Source: Future Concept
Lab |
Another
point of view
If globalisation was somehow
advantageous, its advantage has been the questioning of experiences
and inherited certainties. A source of fear but also of dynamic
energy, the whole planet is turning into a formidable proving
ground and a battlefield at the same time. Within this framework
of experimentation and conflict, where chaos gets back its original
meaning of life seething, variables are such that it is possible
to discipline them only when they do not exist any longer, which
involves - once again at all levels - a change in your observation
angle.
In the business relationship
with the customer, our efforts have focused - over the last ten
years - on brand and product visibility, which was made possible
by large advertising projects aiming at making
the company's history and promises credible. They have emphasised
information about the company's origins and - in more recent times
- have made the vision of the enterprise in the broadest sense
of the word legitimate. You just have to observe the enterprises
in our sector - from manufacturing to distribution - to realise
that the most dynamic companies - no matter their sizes -
have not only their own identity but also a strong and
lively enough vision, able to spread throughout the enterprise
and to create its legitimacy. Team collaboration leads to well-done
work, mergers to miraculously brilliant ideas....
What is true for you is
also true for us. What we tell you on our pages is "tested for
you" from inside, on our structures in several European countries,
which maybe allows us to anticipate events in terms of reflection
and above all gives us the intellectual dynamism necessary to
create relationships of a new kind as well as a new approach to
exchange, fitted into a broader vision that will characterise
the next century.
Why is the place
so essential?
The place is the relational
environment par excellence. Like your house, your school, your
enterprise, your club, the point of sale is a social environment
where an exchange takes place. Inevitably, the overall impression
you have of it affects your evaluation of the products you find
in it and, possibly, your desire to return. All its features influence
your judgement: the physical place, its structure, its lighting,
the people working in it, their looks and attitudes.
Street surveys exist to show to what extent the place where
you buy something is important in your mind. We carried out a
small street survey ourselves focusing on lingerie in particular.
Here are some results: almost all interviewed women remember the
place where they bought lingerie better than the chosen brand.
Known brands are not necessarily the ones bought, with the exception
of the ones famous for their functional connotation. Moreover,
in women's minds, the brand and the sign seem to overlap entirely.
For them, a logo is a logo. Concentrating on the difference between
what pros consider to be important for end customers and what
the latter consider to be important, we discover other interesting
and surprising data: while shops give priority to advertising,
customers opt for style and collection innovation as well as product
quality, both elements being the most important ones for them.
Remarkably, the image of the point of sale comes fourth in the
customers' list of criteria, immediately after the brand, which
- as we have already said - is, however, often mistaken for the
sign.
It is the shops'
turn to speak
We opened our debate in
the January 2001 issue with our first survey titled "Points of
sale and purchase", especially focusing on European distribution
trends. After a year, it has been necessary to go beyond that
and concentrate on the buzzword per excellence: point of sale.
Many things have been said on this subject and many more will
be. Therefore, we have interviewed the retailers among our readers
and - thanks to our colleagues of the Network Dessous group -
have been able to do so all over Europe. In December 2001, a total
of 1,200 telephone interviews were carried out in France, Italy,
Germany, the United Kingdom, Spain and Portugal based upon the
files of shops belonging to the following categories: A+ de Intima,
Linea Intima, Sous, Underlines, Cyl et Chick. They were distributed
in a uniform and representative manner throughout each country.
Since these are the shops considered to be the best ones by the
pros of each country, the results are not representative of all
points of sale. However, they do outline a profile of the most
dynamic part of European retail. Similarities and significant
differences create a very varied scenario we can discover together.
Not only
city centres
Whatever you may say, the
geographical location of the shop continues to be essential. More
than half of the best European shops are located in city centres
(52%), followed by business areas (24%) and shopping centres (17%).
France still has many beautiful shops in city centres (62%). In
Germany they divide between city centres and business areas, whereas
in Portugal 38% of lingerie shops are inside shopping centres,
among the most modern in Europe.
Heterogeneous renovation
72% of interviewees have
been running their shops for more than 5 years. Some of them -
especially in Germany - even say they inherited the business from
their grandparents. However, 28% have begun running their shops
over the last 5 years, 8% of whom did so last year. In France,
only 16% of shops have been renovated in the last 5 years, and
even fewer in Germany, whereas this figure reaches 38% in Italy
and 42% in the United Kingdom. Remember that the survey was carried
out among top shops and that its results are not representative
of all points of sale.
Network Dessous European
Survey
France Italy Germany
United Kingdom Spain Portugal
What shops consider
to be important
Brand advertising
Collection style
and innovation
Product quality
Brand
Delivery details
Profit margin
Range
What customers consider
to be important
Collection style
and innovation
Product quality
Brand
Image of the point
of sale
Waiting time
Service quality
Price
Choice criteria of
European points of sale
Spain Italy France Germany United Kingdom Poland
habit
promotions/sales
fidelity advantages
opening hours
concept
atmosphere
proximity
contact
exhibition clarity
wide choice
price
reception
competent shop assistants
product quality
Geographical location
City centre
52%
Business area
24%
Shopping centre
17%
Others 7%
How long have you
been running the shop?
One year 8%
2 to 5 years 20%
Over 5 years 72%
Are you the owner
of the walls?
Yes 32%
No 68%
Have you done renovation
works since
you took charge of
the shop?
Yes 74%
No 26%
What kind of works
have you done?
decoration 44%
furniture 29%
general structure
27%
Do you think it is
important to renovate the shop?
Yes 63%
No 37%
France
Geographical location
City centre
62%
Business area
16%
Shopping centre
10%
Others 12%
How long have you
been running the shop?
One year 2%
2 to 5 years 14%
Over 5 years 84%
Are you the owner
of the walls?
Yes 18%
No 82%
Have you done renovation
works since you took charge of the shop?
Yes 84%
No 16%
What kind of works
have you done?
decoration 26%
furniture 20%
general structure
54%
Do you think it is
important to renovate the shop?
Yes 94%
No 6%
|
The ownership concern
One of the main critical
elements for independent shops is wall ownership. Only 32% of
interviewees were owners of the shop's walls as compared to 68%
tenants. This situation greatly affects the decision to invest
in renovations requiring the raising of bank loans. In France,
18% of shopkeepers are wall owners as compared to only 12% in
the United Kingdom and 17% in Italy, while wall ownership is very
common in Germany (62%) as well as in Portugal (50%).
Renovations
On the whole, the works
carried out in the interviewed shops only regard decoration (44%
of answers). This time beautiful Italian shops stand out from
the European average with 80% of affirmative answers regarding
a renovation of the general structure of the point of sale, followed
by the French with 54%. English and Portuguese shops bring up
the rear with 29% of affirmative answers.
Easier said than done...
The differences between
the countries emerge even more clearly from the importance given
to renovation works. On the whole, 63% of interviewees think it
is important to renovate their shops, although 37% have quite
a different opinion. French shops, which are very interested in
this subject, gave mostly affirmative answers (94%) even though
only 28% of shopkeepers say they are going to carry out some works.
The same is true of the British, 58% of whom think it is important
to renovate their shops although only 20% will put this intention
into practice. Italians are more consistent: 40% of them believe
it is important to renovate their shops and 27% are really going
to carry out works in the short term.
The most motivated shopkeepers
in Europe are the Portuguese, 54% of whom are going to renovate
their shops in the near future. On the contrary, 42% of British
shopkeepers think that decoration is not a priority, even though
20% intend to decorate their shops.
As for Spanish shopkeepers,
74% of the interviewees are not going to renovate their points
of sale as compared to 6% who have just done so.
Rent rates and shop
primary yields in Europe
City Price per m2 per year
Yields %
Amsterdam 1361
6,00-6,50
Barcelona 1118
6,25-7,00
Berlin
2454
5,00-5,50
Brussels 1363
6,00-7,25
Budapest 736
na
Copenhagen 1742
6,00-6,50
Dublin
1729
3,70-4,25
Frankfurt 2270
5,00-5,50
Geneva
1629
5,50-6,00
Lisbon
1316
6,75
London
4231
6,00-6,25
Madrid
1442
5,75-6,50
Milan
1187
7,70
Moscow 3189
20,00-25,00
Paris
5450
6,25-6,75
Prague
1335
9,00-10,00
Rome
620
6,00
Stockholm 1275
5,75-6,25
Warsaw 957
10,00-11,00
Vienna
1526
4,50-5,50
Zurich
2932
5,50
Source: Nomisma on
the basis of various sources |
The seven key elements
of a shop
Here are some useful elements
for those who have decided to renovate their shops or simply to
reconfirm their present organisation. Common sense and on-the-field
experience are the key factors to have a dynamic approach to this
profession.
Entrance
The entrance to the shop
must be as wide as possible or v-shaped and must be conceived
so as to stimulate people's desire to enter. The possibility of
having a "visual entrance" inside the shop favours the initial
contact. You can add customisation elements trying, however, to
respect a certain harmony with the other shop windows in your
street.
Sign
It is a characterising
element too often neglected. Still, it is the advertising tool
of the point of sale and deserves much more consideration. A good
sign - reproduced, for example, on bags or other accessories -
can be a very efficient communication means. Through its graphic
form and colours the sign must express the style of the shop -
chic, fashionable, natural - as well as seduction, well-being,
modernity and, why not, everyday life. This will help the public
to know at once the nature of what they will find inside.
Shop window
It shows the product range
of the shop but it is a means to catch the passers'-by attention,
too. That is why you should replace the products in your shop
window at least once a week and create a shop window theme every
month. Contrary to what is generally thought, you often just have
to have a little good taste and fantasy to present a selection
of products. Colour
themes are the most simple and efficient ones as long as you choose
the right ones at the right moment. Apart from traditional holidays,
however, there can be themes inspired to other, less usual, events
such as the appearance of a successful movie like Moulin Rouge...
The essential thing is to be up-to-date. Anyway, you must avoid
cluttering up the shop window with too many products and colours,
which could convey an idea of disorder. Similarly, there is no
point in displaying one single product unless it is really exceptional!
In general, you should place the most visual products in the middle
and at average height so that they are visible at one metre's
distance while passing the shop window. Pay attention to lighting,
too: the shop windows sells your products even when the shop is
closed, especially if it is located near restaurants, cinemas
and other activity centres.
Setting-up costs
and life expectancy of shops according to different kinds
of fashion products
sector range period (A) format (B)
cost per m2 in euro
clothing low
5 120-200 400-600
clothing middle
3 120-200 775-1300
clothing high
3 120-200 3.600
and more
sports articles
middle 3 400-800 775-1050
perfumery middle 5 100-200 1050-1555
optical
middle
5 300-400 1800-2320
products
leotards middle
4 40-60
520-620
and swimwear
lingerie
middle 4 50-100
520-620
shoes
middle 4 100-200 520-775
jewels (CC) middle 5 60-100
1550-2060
(A) periodicity of
concept renovations
(B) size of the point
of sale
(CC) shopping centre |
Door
The shop window and the
door are now one single thing because the door is often made of
glass to allow visualising the shop from outside. There are, however,
various kinds of doors. The traditional one, which you have to
push in order to enter, requires the customer's firm intention
to pass the threshold of your shop, but it has the advantage of
giving the place a certain confidentiality that can be good for
a lingerie shop. There also is the automatic door, which immediately
gives the point of sale a modern and efficient atmosphere that
does not necessarily reflect all styles. Third possibility: no
door or an open one. A solution widely used in shops located in
shopping centres, this option is no doubt an invitation to enter
but is less suitable for smaller shops. For fans of open doors,
there are even specific conditioning systems that stop conditioning
at the entrance to the point of sale.
Inner structure
Whatever the size of the
shop, its inner arrangement must follow a certain logic that enables
you to recreate a harmonious path through the different areas.
Products on display, loss leaders, bargains, storage, the resting
corner, the try-on rooms and the counter: it is possible and necessary
to integrate these seven elements even in a small space.
Decoration
Would you give someone
a beautiful present wrapped in crumpled paper? The same is true
of your shop.
The atmosphere in the shop
strongly affects the customer's impression of the products in
it. While it is true that a beautiful product continues to be
such, it will be even more beautiful if it is presented in an
environment emphasising it. Fortunately, there are no universal
rules regarding decoration with the exception of some little tricks
(light colours have an enlarging effect, dark ones a shrinking
effect, a low ceiling gives confidentiality and so on). It is
essential, however, to think over the style of the shop before
decorating it. As for the choice of your sign as well as products
and any other characterising element, decoration must help to
recreate a form of consistency, a leit-motif. Once you have chosen
your style, you must follow it without indulging in contradictory
personal desires that would lead to confusion.
How are our purchases
going to change
by 2015?
2001
2015
Planned purchases
30%
20%
Opportunist purchases15%
30%
Sudden purchases
18%
25%
Weighed purchases
9%
10%
Necessary purchases
24%
9%
Social purchases
4%
6% |
Product presentation
Over the last few years,
there has been a real crusade against boxes, and we must admit
that products have get out of them at last. But the price paid
has been very high. Lest they lose one single sale, shopkeepers
heap their whole stocks on shaky supports: a little moderation,
please! While it is true, acknowledged and statistically proven
that the customer cannot buy what he has never seen, it is also
true that such confusion will not lead him to look further. Rationalisation
is the keyword: choose the models to be displayed according to
a practical but understandable logic and create a repertoire containing
all products, sizes, shapes and colours (someone even prepares
books with models cut out of magazines or catalogues). As for
displaying tools, be they neutral or decorative, everybody can
choose them according to the style of the shop as long as they
allow seeing and touching the products comfortably.
You are the
essential thing
For more than a year -
in our "Not like the others" column - our Intima team has been
searching and selecting for you the shops having a personal style,
with a consistency that announces their colours and invites you
to pass the threshold. This project has been so welcomed by all
pros that we have introduced our "Rack" column, devoted, as its
name indicates, to openings and renovations of shops with dispassionate
comments on distribution, a professional concern that does not
affect the end customer in the slightest.
This experience has enabled
us to evaluate more thoroughly the evolution of lingerie points
of sale, be they independent shops, franchising shops or other
branches. We have also had the chance to visit these new places
and examine their orientations. A shop able to absorb new elements
will be no doubt perceived better than others will, but remaking
the container without reinventing the content would be really
dangerous.
Take advantage of this
occasion to clear your meters, get rid of long-acquired habits
and start it all from scratch with a new perspective. In addition
to the common sense suggestions we have just given you, remember
that you are the essential thing. Nowadays many people talk about
differentiated universes, less wide, more thorough, spaces, with
"consultant" shop assistants in charge of recreating a trust relationship
with customers. Who can consolidate this relationship - one other
distribution forms envy us - better than you the shopkeepers can?
Who can enliven points of sale with his or her looks and personality
better than you the shopkeepers can? All odds are in your favour.
Happy New Year.
Retailers!
It's your turn to
speak
Have you found this
survey interesting? Do you want to react or add something
on the basis of your own experience?
Have you just done
renovation works or are you going to do some?
Are you going to
expand your business?
The whole opening
section of Intima is closely related to you. Don't hesitate
to speak up for yourselves and take part in our "Beautiful
shops" section.
Please contact us
at Intima
phone: (0033) 4 78 92 91 29
e-mail address: Intimafrance@aol.com
fax: (0033) 4 78 92 91 29
mail: Intima 11 Rue Henri IV 69002
Lyon France
Tear this page from
the magazine now and keep it within reach...
Enquête = Survey
Enquête (la suite)
= Survey (continued) |
|